2. Hobbies

The FredArray II

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  • Playing for the first time. There was a peak at about 5khz which I was able to attenuate by lowering the woofer crossover frequency. The tweeter sounds very good just as it is with a 6uF cap and a 16 ohm shunt resistor. There was a peak at 40-50hz, but plugging one of the three ports and adding some polyfill seems to have tamed this problem. SOLD

    Playing for the first time. There was a peak at about 5khz which I was able to attenuate by lowering the woofer crossover frequency. The tweeter sounds very good just as it is with a 6uF cap and a 16 ohm shunt resistor. There was a peak at 40-50hz, but plugging one of the three ports and adding some polyfill seems to have tamed this problem. SOLD

  • There is a separate sub enclosure for every three midwoofers. Each sub enclosure is ported with a rear facing 3" vent. The bottom section is an isolated chamber for the crossover.

    There is a separate sub enclosure for every three midwoofers. Each sub enclosure is ported with a rear facing 3" vent. The bottom section is an isolated chamber for the crossover.

  • Here's a useful enclosure construction tip - First fit the front baffle to the box without glue and clamp into the exact position you want. Then drill a pilot hole at each corner and insert a #4 by 1-1/2" finishing nail into each pilot hole. Remove the clamps and nails, apply a bead of carpenters glue, and set the baffle onto the box. Push a nail into each pilot hole again to align the baffle exactly in place, then clamp all around. The finishing nails hold the baffle in position so it doesn't slide around when you tighten the clamps. This technique enbles you to avoid using screws, which leave holes to be filled with wood putty before painting, a labor intensive task.

    Here's a useful enclosure construction tip - First fit the front baffle to the box without glue and clamp into the exact position you want. Then drill a pilot hole at each corner and insert a #4 by 1-1/2" finishing nail into each pilot hole. Remove the clamps and nails, apply a bead of carpenters glue, and set the baffle onto the box. Push a nail into each pilot hole again to align the baffle exactly in place, then clamp all around. The finishing nails hold the baffle in position so it doesn't slide around when you tighten the clamps. This technique enbles you to avoid using screws, which leave holes to be filled with wood putty before painting, a labor intensive task.

  • The FredArray II line array speakers will have nine 5.5" Silver Flute midwoofers and a single Vifa DX25 tweeter per side. The enclosoures are 64" high, 12" wide, 13.5" deep.

    The FredArray II line array speakers will have nine 5.5" Silver Flute midwoofers and a single Vifa DX25 tweeter per side. The enclosoures are 64" high, 12" wide, 13.5" deep.

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    Playing for the first time. There was a peak at about 5khz which I was able to attenuate by lowering the woofer crossover frequency. The tweeter sounds very good just as it is with a 6uF cap and a 16 ohm shunt resistor. There was a peak at 40-50hz, but plugging one of the three ports and adding some polyfill seems to have tamed this problem. SOLD
    There is a separate sub enclosure for every three midwoofers. Each sub enclosure is ported with a rear facing 3" vent. The bottom section is an isolated chamber for the crossover.
    Here's a useful enclosure construction tip - First fit the front baffle to the box without glue and clamp into the exact position you want. Then drill a pilot hole at each corner and insert a #4 by 1-1/2" finishing nail into each pilot hole. Remove the clamps and nails, apply a bead of carpenters glue, and set the baffle onto the box. Push a nail into each pilot hole again to align the baffle exactly in place, then clamp all around. The finishing nails hold the baffle in position so it doesn't slide around when you tighten the clamps. This technique enbles you to avoid using screws, which leave holes to be filled with wood putty before painting, a labor intensive task.